Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 16 Page 17 Page 18 Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Page 23 Page 24 Page 25 Page 26 Page 27 Page 28 Page 29 Page 30 Page 31 Page 32movingly about the weekly vigils held by the families (mainly mothers and grandmothers) of the desaparecidos, the estimated 30,000 ‘disappeared’ victims of the 1976 military coup. I sit for a while in the Metropolitan Cathedral, once home to Pope Francis, but it’s hard just now to see its Rococo glory through tourist eyes. I need to read more about the junta and its cruel legacy. From Buenos Aires we take a bus ride with guides Jasmina and Dennis to La Eloisa, an estancia; until recently a working ranch and now a golf and polo lodge in a vast European-style park with guest accommodation (and some of the finest beef I’ve ever tasted). La Eloisa is memorable for many reasons, not least its owner: in his seventies with a mane of white hair, the proud possessor of a 1950s Mercedes convertible in which he bounces all over the estate. He’s a great conversationalist, and tells us about his other property, a 16th-century castle outside Siena, which he has converted into a boutique hotel. The night before we fly home, we head out to a wonderful dinner in Santiago (perhaps the best of the trip, and that’s saying something!) at a small restaurant, known for matching regional food with local wine. It’s a night tinged with sadness. Our spirit of adventure has taken us to some great cities, ancient and modern, through the jungle and under a waterfall. We have seen howling monkeys, dozing caimans and shrieking macaws, but the quiet and private moments of the Peregrine trip were every bit as wonderful. That’s what I’ll remember. Written by Greg Kratzmann www.peregrineadventures.com | Call: 1300 854 445 Peregrine_Go_Xplore_16_page.indd 13 5/08/2016 10:19 AM