Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 1614 30 July 2016 I t’s near dusk as we bump our way down a four‑wheel-drive track, the dirt road hemmed with tall grass and gums. We’ve already seen wallabies, brumbies and a family of buffalo, but we aren’t prepared for what slithers onto the bonnet of our car. “Snake!” We had spotted the thin, colourful critter shoot under the car when we last stopped, but assumed he’d kept going — or that the hefty creek crossing had taken care of him. His bright blue head and golden tanned body disappears back under the 4WD and we quickly close all vents and plan how to exit the car when we arrive at our campsite. Despite being a world-renowned destination that attracts more than 200,000 visitors a year, much of Kakadu is still untamed country. Our destination, Koolpin Gorge (Jarrangbarnmi) in the park’s south remains largely unscathed by tourism, with a permit system limiting access to 40 visitors at a time. We arrive at the cosy bush camp and park the car near someone else’s tent for the night. The next morning we wake to the trickle of Koolpin Creek, which runs alongside the campsite and continues for many kilometres. We have our sights set on a dip, so we have to hike about one kilometre upstream where it’s safe to swim. We walk along the creek, then spy an expanse of water. The vast, shimmering pool is tempting, but its silky surface is interrupted by the sharp edges of a steel croc trap — no swimming here. We trek on. At times we are gripping rock ledges and ducking under craggy outcrops. There are lots of pauses atop boulders as we look out for the colourful ribbons that mark the way. After about an hour of rock scrambling, we come to the main rock pool, its surface an upside-down watercolour reflecting back the terracotta walls of the gorge and the small puffs of cloud in the crisp blue sky. Uneven stepping stones into the shallows give a sense that entering the pool with poise is possible. It’s not. We all slide down the slippery surface and plunge ungracefully into the water. It’s early dry season and the water is cool, so we circumnavigate the pool to warm up, pausing only for a firm massage at the small waterfall opposite our entry point. After lunch, we scuttle up the side of the gorge, determined to discover the secret rock art we’ve heard about. Miraculously we find it, though without some local tips it’s likely the red earthy figures would have blended into the background. We hike up to the next swimming hole, another large pool. Smooth, flat rocks angle into the water at 35 degrees. Again, looking pretty upon entry is a challenge. The view back down over the creek and the surrounding landscape is spectacular. It’s the perfect way to finish a day in Kakadu. I feel refreshed and rejuvenated — though still a little unsettled. I hope that snake hasn’t taken up permanent residence under my car. Photo: Keren Shanley Untamed country Kylie Stevenson discovers a beautiful but remote pocket of Kakadu. Australia Getting there Koolpin Gorge (Jarrangbarnmi) is about 220km from Darwin. You need confident four-wheel-driving, moderate walking skills and bookings in advance. Contact the permits officer on (08) 8938 1140 or email kakadunationalpark@environment.gov.au. Day trippers can stay at Jabiru (135km) or Cooinda (90km). Some tour companies offer trips to Koolpin. LOCAL COMPANY EXPERIENCED TOUR GUIDES PRIVATE WILDERNESS CAMPS FREQUENT DEPARTURES www.wildexpeditions.com.au kakadu • kimberley • west coast W I L D EXPEDITIO N S A U S T R A L I A  1300 73 88 70  sales@kimberleywild.com.au