Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 16Walk the streets of Old Havana and see teenagers lounging on steps, young boys bouncing soccer balls and swapping baseball cards, older women with their hair in rollers gossiping and younger women in tight Lycra attracting whistles. Yes, it’s easy to fall under its spell, even though change is in the wind. But head out to the countryside to see another face of Cuba. I ventured to historic Trinidad, Santiago de Cuba with its Afro‑Cuban cultural influences and great music, coastal Baracoa where cocoa thrives, the tobacco fields of Vinales and the glorious beaches of Varadero. Home stays are a good way to connect with ordinary Cubans and they offer clean, comfortable basic rooms with tiny bathrooms and tasty breakfasts. Challenges include queues to change money in country areas and restricted wifi — it is only available at hotels or town squares after you purchase a wifi card. Back in Havana, there is so much to like about its bars and their stories — La Bodeguita del Medio claims to be the birthplace of the mojito cocktail. Seems legendary author Hemingway had many favourite watering holes — every bar I walk into claims he raised a glass there. My favourite, however, is El Chanchullero, a quiet bar with good music that makes great mojitos and has a sign setting people straight: “Hemingway was never here”. That’s Havana for you. Sue Wallace was a guest of Intrepid Travel. Rhythm of everyday life It’s an odds-on bet you will hear the catchy Cuban song, Guantanamera, at least once in every bar you visit. Bands and singers are out in full force in the evening in Havana where rhythm seems to be genetic. The best places to enjoy music and sip the country’s national drink, Cuba libre — made with Havana rum — include La Casa de la Musica Centro Habana and Teatro Bertolt Brecht, which attracts a discerning Cuban audience. Salsa dancing and classes are popular and group lessons will have most mastering basic salsa steps in no time. El Floridita serves daiquiris and has live music — it was one of Hemingway’s hangouts and there’s a life-size statue of the author. Cabaret shows are performed at the famed Tropicana and there is plenty of street music with hip youngsters jamming away and old hippies showing their style. For your free brochure call 1300 792 195 gocollette.com It’s Your time to Explore. Let Collette Take Care of You From Start To Finish ABN: 32 600 161 671 I AFTA Allied Member The Best in Worldwide 4-star Touring Fast facts FLY: Qantas flies to Santiago, Chile, then codeshares to Havana. STAY: Saratoga Havana, hotel-saratoga.com; The Hotel Nacional de Cuba, hotelnacionaldecuba.com. DO: Intrepid Travel’s Best of Cuba, intrepidtravel.com/cuba.